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Concern over Peru's Coarsening Alpaca Fibre |
| Mounting concern is being expressed in Peru over the steady increase of coarser alpaca fibre (31 microns+) whilst the production of finer, and more commercial, qualities (20 to 26 microns) is diminishing by comparison. Further, the coarser qualities are noted for more kemp and general hairiness giving them an unattractive comfort factor for apparel. |
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What Makes a Champion? |
| I want to talk about “the fleece on the alpaca”, and should like to start asking, which are those important characteristics in the fleece?, and are those characteristics all equal in economical and technical terms? By Dr. Julio Sumar |
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The Case For Crimp |
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Crimp Versus Crinkle |
| I want to thank Alpacas Magazine for allowing me to extend the discussion of crimp, now that we have been joined by Eric Hoffman with his recent article entitled, "Curvature: Is it Crimp or Something Else?" His article takes issue with some of what I had previously reported, and I welcome the opportunity to expand on my ideas and to disagree with Eric's points of view. |
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Measuring Fibre Curvature: Key Issues |
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Fiber Testing Terminology |
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Crying Over Spilt Onions? |
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Measuring Microns |
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The Studmaster Fleece Report |
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Alpaca Fiber from the Textile Point of View |
| Once alpaca fleece is in the bag, what is it worth? The textile manufacturer could not care less whether the fleece available for sale came from a prize winning stud or the herd's ugly duckling. Understanding what qualities the buyer desires most is the key to getting maximum value from Alpaca fiber production. |
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Don't Let Micron Madness Crimp Your Style |
| Today, people are going from state to state and farm to farm selecting alpacas, often with only one thought in mind -- what is the micron count? I can tell you that a histogram is absolutely and unequivocally irrelevant as the basis of evaluation for two different animals from two different farms. The problem is further complicated if the animals being compared are of different age and different sex or if the histogram is an old one. |
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Are People Allergic To Wool? |
As it turns out, over 30% of American consumers surveyed by the International Wool Secretariat reported that they were "allergic" to wool. After extensive study, scientists have determined that these consumers were not allergic to wool. The perceived allergic reaction to wool was actually a painful response by sensitive skin to coarse fibers. The consumers skin was being "prickled" by coarse guard hair or kemp-like fiber found in the wool.
Scientists have determined that it doesn't matter whether a garment is made of wool, alpaca, mohair, or man-made acrylics. If over 5% of the fabric is comprised of fiber with a diameter in excess of 30 microns, it will prickle or itch. Research has also established that once the average diameter of the fiber in a fabric or sweater exceeds 22 microns, the prickle factor begins to appear. In other words, the person wearing the garment begins to itch. |
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The Role of Crimp in the Textile Process |
| The term "crimp" has become a very familiar term to alpaca breeders. Crimp is defined as the natural wave formation of the fiber, expressed as waves or crimps per unit of length. Visually, crimp is most notable in the well organized staples or locks found in the fleece. Crimp also occurs along the shaft of a single fiber. This has been defined by Cameron Holt, of the Melbourne College of Textiles, as crinkle. |
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Some Views on Evaluating Suri Fiber |
| Interviews with Don Julio Barreda, as well as the following fiber processors: Derek Michell, grandson of Frank Michell, who founded Michell CIA; Alonso Burgos, the head fleece buyer for Grupo Inca, headquartered in Arequipa; Glynn Smith, the person responsible for sales to the world market for Internacional Commercio of Arequipa. |
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Peruvian Interviews |
| Over recent years I was fortunate to be given some private time with Senor Derek Michell of Michell and Cia, Senor Charles Pattheys of Inca Tops and Dr Julio Sumar, to clarify some of the "much discussed" areas of fibre processing and selection points. To do this I posed a series of questions to the gentlemen who were most obliging and generous with their answers. |
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